Rand Avicultural Society
Thursday, December 8, 2011
RAS BIRD OF THE YEAR RAS has introduced a new feature i.e." Bird of the year" The objective is to encourage members to focus their attention on breeding the chosen Bird of the year so that by the end of a period, the collective results may be collated in such a way as to come up with a winning "recipe" for breeding these birds successfully on an ongoing basis. Our goal is to reach an average of 10 babies per pair. If this can be achieved by at least 4 or more members, then the particular" Recipe" to achieve this result, should be duplicatable by other bird breeders using the same recipe. The chosen Finch for this year is the STAR FINCH. This is a middle of the road choice since it is not too difficult to breed, neither is it too easy to breed and they are readily avaialble and not too expensive to purchase. There is quite a variety that can be bred i.e. Normal Red Faced, Normal Yellow Faced and Cinamon plus many pied mutations . Below are some pics of above:
Tuesday, October 18, 2011
RAND AVICULTURE SOCIETY EXOTIC BIRD EXPO AND MARKET
The Rand Avicultural Society, is again proud to announce that it will be hosting its second Exotic Bird Expo.
It was a huge success last year and visitors from many outlying areas of the country attended.
This year the Expo will be double in size and a new feature will be a bird market section, where bird keepers who have a surplus of birds, will have the opportunity of offering birds for sale to fellow bird keepers for breeding purposes.
There will also be a number of vendors who will be promoting various bird related products and services.
RAS is a generalist Bird Club and visitors can expect to see almost the full spectrum of birds From Finches to Canaries, Softbills to Doves and Ground birds and of course the ever popular Parrot family
These groups of birds will be on display for all to see.
We will also be hosting the Zebra Finch Society and the Gouldian Finch Society where some of the worlds most beautiful birds can be seen
The prime objective of the expo is to present and expose tp the general public the rewarding hobby of aviculture (especially for the benefit of the younger generation) and to also attract new members to the society.
Rand Avicultural Society has been in existence for more than 35 years and would welcome new members. We hold monthly meetings at the Honeydew Country Club, Johannesburg, and provide a wonderful opportunity for likeminded members to meet , get to know each other, and talk and learn more about their birds.
The Expo will be hosted at B&B Markets, Trade Centre, Roodepoort, on October 22nd and 23rd and entrance is free.
From 09h30 to 16h00 both days
For Further information please contact Mike on 082 452 4261
It was a huge success last year and visitors from many outlying areas of the country attended.
This year the Expo will be double in size and a new feature will be a bird market section, where bird keepers who have a surplus of birds, will have the opportunity of offering birds for sale to fellow bird keepers for breeding purposes.
There will also be a number of vendors who will be promoting various bird related products and services.
RAS is a generalist Bird Club and visitors can expect to see almost the full spectrum of birds From Finches to Canaries, Softbills to Doves and Ground birds and of course the ever popular Parrot family
These groups of birds will be on display for all to see.
We will also be hosting the Zebra Finch Society and the Gouldian Finch Society where some of the worlds most beautiful birds can be seen
The prime objective of the expo is to present and expose tp the general public the rewarding hobby of aviculture (especially for the benefit of the younger generation) and to also attract new members to the society.
Rand Avicultural Society has been in existence for more than 35 years and would welcome new members. We hold monthly meetings at the Honeydew Country Club, Johannesburg, and provide a wonderful opportunity for likeminded members to meet , get to know each other, and talk and learn more about their birds.
The Expo will be hosted at B&B Markets, Trade Centre, Roodepoort, on October 22nd and 23rd and entrance is free.
From 09h30 to 16h00 both days
For Further information please contact Mike on 082 452 4261
Sunday, May 22, 2011
The latest Livefood for your birds
At our last meeting, One of our members, Robbie Ihlenveldt, gave a presentation on the breeding of Fly Maggots, as a source of live food for feeding to our birds.
When is comes to breeding Finches and Softbills, it is imperative in many cases to have a good source of livefood in order for the babies to be reared successfully. The traditional live food until recently has been Termites and Mealworms. Unfortunately due to development in the urban areas,termites have become difficult to obtain and mealworms can have undesirable side effects.
Here follows information on breeding Fly Maggots:-
Hence introduction of Fly Maggots. Maggots are easy to propagate, have a short lifespan and are clean without much smell. They also have a high content of
protein (approx28%) (see Pics)
PIctures of hatched Maggots and Fly Breeding Box
Robbie suggested that parrot breeders might like to try dry freezing maggots and adding to soft food to see if they will eat them Can only do good if they do.
When is comes to breeding Finches and Softbills, it is imperative in many cases to have a good source of livefood in order for the babies to be reared successfully. The traditional live food until recently has been Termites and Mealworms. Unfortunately due to development in the urban areas,termites have become difficult to obtain and mealworms can have undesirable side effects.
Here follows information on breeding Fly Maggots:-
Talk on Breeding Fly Maggots by Robbie Ihlenveldt
.Why maggots have been introduced to birds diet:
Live food is an imperative part of Finch and Softbill diets for breeding success
(i) Mealworms have a long (3month ) life cycle. Also contain a lot of fat leading
to fat birds. Fat/obese birds are poor breeders.
(ii) Flying ants are first prize but are difficult to obtain. Also contain a lot of fat.
(i) Termites: becoming more and more difficult to obtain due to new developments.Hence introduction of Fly Maggots. Maggots are easy to propagate, have a short lifespan and are clean without much smell. They also have a high content of
protein (approx28%) (see Pics)
PIctures of hatched Maggots and Fly Breeding Box
Robbie suggested that parrot breeders might like to try dry freezing maggots and adding to soft food to see if they will eat them Can only do good if they do.
Robbies Breeding cage is very large, (See Pic ) designed so as to provide temperate conditions. If heat near the lamp gets too hot flies can move away.
Sugar is the only food breeding flies require for energy needs.
They also need water, obtained using foam sponge soaked in water dish.
The required temperature is 26-34deg C
Methodology
Apart from sugar and water as mentioned, You`ll need 2 containers in which the breeding medium is placed.
A mixture of Milk Powder and Digestive Bran ( 5% --20% milk powder) is mixed together with water until just damp and placed in 2 containers and pressed down.
These are placed inside the fly cage. The female flies will lay eggs in this medium which will hatch out within 2 days into maggots.
The normal house fly will lay minimum of 300 eggs.
Take out and replace the containers of Breeding medium every 2 days.
Every 2nd day leave 1 container inside the cage for 8-10 days, so as new flies can hatch out and continue the breeding cycle. There will eventually be a regular routine of harvesting newly hatched maggots and replenishing with 1 tub for continued breeding purposes.
Robbies Breeding cage has a recessed section in which tubs of hatched maggots can be kept warm for further growth until ready to be fed to the birds. The maggots can also be kept in a fridge to stifle their growth.
Friday, April 15, 2011
Thick Billed Weavers
An interesting sighting of a rather uncommon bird for this area ( Florida, West Rand ) has been sighted.
It is a small flock of about 20 Thick Billed Weavers (mostly hens and juveniles )
They seem to be attracted to the berries of the white Stinkwood tree in the garden .
It would be interesting to know if these birds have been spotted further west than the Roodepoort area
and if anyone has been successful in breeding them.
Do let us know. Heres a picture of some juveniles (note the yellow beaks)
It is a small flock of about 20 Thick Billed Weavers (mostly hens and juveniles )
They seem to be attracted to the berries of the white Stinkwood tree in the garden .
It would be interesting to know if these birds have been spotted further west than the Roodepoort area
and if anyone has been successful in breeding them.
Do let us know. Heres a picture of some juveniles (note the yellow beaks)
Thursday, April 14, 2011
Basic Guidelines and Rules for Keeping and Breeding Finches and Waxbills in Gauteng
Introduction
.
Before buying any finches or waxbills, you will need to decide which species you want to keep, bearing in mind that these birds should all come from similar environments e.g. dry arid regions, forested regions etc.
Your next step is to find as much information as you possibly can on the birds you have decided to keep. Search the Internet, read books and magazines, ask known breeders, ask members of the club. Unfortunately information on some species will be difficult to find. However assistance can be obtained from experienced club members or from knowledge of the geographical regions that they are found in. By establishing which geographical region the birds come from, this will enable you to assess which foods are most predominant in your birds diets, namely grasses, fruit etc.
Before releasing any new birds into your aviaries first ensure that they are quarantined for at least 14 days. Quarantine could either take place in a specific aviary set aside for this purpose or in double breeders, this however depends on the amount of space you have or the finances you have available to create a quarantine area.
All new birds will be susceptible to stress and it is therefore imperative that this be eliminated as soon as possible so that they can settle down and recover. Whilst in quarantine you can treat these new birds for worms and other parasites etc. and ensure that they are healthy before releasing them into your aviaries, thereby avoiding contamination of your breeding stock.
Action to be taken Level of importance
Introducing new birds to your aviary.
1. Ring all new birds for future identification. Use colour code. 2
2. Ensure that your aviaries provide shelter in the form of shrubs grasses, blou bos etc.
where the birds can feel safe when threatened. 1
3.When releasing new birds into the aviary, do this in the morning so that the birds can settle, locate food, water and shelter before sunset. 1
4. Provide termites and other forms of live food in abundance, as all waxbills
and finches rely heavily on live food, not only when breeding but also in their daily diets. 1
5.A shallow birdbath is required to encourage bathing ; regular bathing
improves birds health and wellbeing.. 1
6. Your aviary should be positioned in such a way as to provide as much sunlight
as possible for your birds as well as being protected from the elements. 1
7. Always ensure that there are enough sheltered roosting sites so that your birds can escape inclement weather and are able to roost in a sheltered environment at night. 1
8. Provide a low wattage night light in the shelter of the aviary to enable birds that have taken fright to settle. It also enables them to find food which enables them to regulate their body temperature in winter. A 15w globe is recommended. 1
9. Supplements such as Avi stress, Effective Micro-Organisms can be applied to the drinking water to boost immune systems and to combat harmful bacteria and enhance nutrition absorption. 2
Summer Regimen. (Ensure all of the above are in place).
Fresh softfood is to be provided every day. This should include items like grated carrot, and Brocolli, Garlic cloves,Cede mix, Avi-plus, sprouted seed, etc. This softfood should be protected from the elements. 1
Plant grass seed either directly in the aviary or in pots/trays as feed for your birds
remembering that in the wild they feed predominantly on grass seed heads.
Protect the young grass growth from the birds, giving it a chance to develop 1
.
Provide live food in the form of termites, mealworms, fruit flies regularly.
During the breeding periods ensure that live food is always available. 1
Plant Nasturtiums, Chick Weed, and Dandelion etc. to attract insects into your aviary as well as providing natural anti biotic when your birds feed on these plants. 1
Always provide a variety of nesting materials and nesting sites so that the birds can
choose where they feel more secure and to prevent squabbling. 1
Always ensure that the group of birds being kept in one aviary are compatable to avoid intereference and bullying. 1
Winter Regimen.
There should not be any changes made to the Summer program for Winter as finches and waxbills normally breed from late Summer going into Winter. Birds from Central Africa as well as Northern Australia are predominantly Winter breeders due to the fact that their geographical areas are then cooler and more conducive to breeding. 1
. It is most important that your birds have access to sheltered early morning sunshine in
the winter to help them recover from a severely cold night. 1
Conclusion.
As serious Aviculturists, we are responsible for the successful propagation of the species we keep. Soon these little gems may no longer be available to us so it is imperative that we apply all the knowledge we have in keeping them healthy and productive.
It is also vital that any new experiences gained by Aviculturists are shared with club members and are documented for future reference.
Due to the iimport and export bans imposed by some countries, one can no longer rely on an
endless supply of birds and therefore it has become necessary to specialize and establish
excellent breeding stock amongst like minded aviculturists.
Level of importance
1. Absolutely Neccessary.
2. Necessary ( If possible).
RAS always welcomes new members. Should you like to know more about joining
Please email megapower@icon.co.za
.
Before buying any finches or waxbills, you will need to decide which species you want to keep, bearing in mind that these birds should all come from similar environments e.g. dry arid regions, forested regions etc.
Your next step is to find as much information as you possibly can on the birds you have decided to keep. Search the Internet, read books and magazines, ask known breeders, ask members of the club. Unfortunately information on some species will be difficult to find. However assistance can be obtained from experienced club members or from knowledge of the geographical regions that they are found in. By establishing which geographical region the birds come from, this will enable you to assess which foods are most predominant in your birds diets, namely grasses, fruit etc.
Before releasing any new birds into your aviaries first ensure that they are quarantined for at least 14 days. Quarantine could either take place in a specific aviary set aside for this purpose or in double breeders, this however depends on the amount of space you have or the finances you have available to create a quarantine area.
All new birds will be susceptible to stress and it is therefore imperative that this be eliminated as soon as possible so that they can settle down and recover. Whilst in quarantine you can treat these new birds for worms and other parasites etc. and ensure that they are healthy before releasing them into your aviaries, thereby avoiding contamination of your breeding stock.
Action to be taken Level of importance
Introducing new birds to your aviary.
1. Ring all new birds for future identification. Use colour code. 2
2. Ensure that your aviaries provide shelter in the form of shrubs grasses, blou bos etc.
where the birds can feel safe when threatened. 1
3.When releasing new birds into the aviary, do this in the morning so that the birds can settle, locate food, water and shelter before sunset. 1
4. Provide termites and other forms of live food in abundance, as all waxbills
and finches rely heavily on live food, not only when breeding but also in their daily diets. 1
5.A shallow birdbath is required to encourage bathing ; regular bathing
improves birds health and wellbeing.. 1
6. Your aviary should be positioned in such a way as to provide as much sunlight
as possible for your birds as well as being protected from the elements. 1
7. Always ensure that there are enough sheltered roosting sites so that your birds can escape inclement weather and are able to roost in a sheltered environment at night. 1
8. Provide a low wattage night light in the shelter of the aviary to enable birds that have taken fright to settle. It also enables them to find food which enables them to regulate their body temperature in winter. A 15w globe is recommended. 1
9. Supplements such as Avi stress, Effective Micro-Organisms can be applied to the drinking water to boost immune systems and to combat harmful bacteria and enhance nutrition absorption. 2
Summer Regimen. (Ensure all of the above are in place).
Fresh softfood is to be provided every day. This should include items like grated carrot, and Brocolli, Garlic cloves,Cede mix, Avi-plus, sprouted seed, etc. This softfood should be protected from the elements. 1
Plant grass seed either directly in the aviary or in pots/trays as feed for your birds
remembering that in the wild they feed predominantly on grass seed heads.
Protect the young grass growth from the birds, giving it a chance to develop 1
.
Provide live food in the form of termites, mealworms, fruit flies regularly.
During the breeding periods ensure that live food is always available. 1
Plant Nasturtiums, Chick Weed, and Dandelion etc. to attract insects into your aviary as well as providing natural anti biotic when your birds feed on these plants. 1
Always provide a variety of nesting materials and nesting sites so that the birds can
choose where they feel more secure and to prevent squabbling. 1
Always ensure that the group of birds being kept in one aviary are compatable to avoid intereference and bullying. 1
Winter Regimen.
There should not be any changes made to the Summer program for Winter as finches and waxbills normally breed from late Summer going into Winter. Birds from Central Africa as well as Northern Australia are predominantly Winter breeders due to the fact that their geographical areas are then cooler and more conducive to breeding. 1
. It is most important that your birds have access to sheltered early morning sunshine in
the winter to help them recover from a severely cold night. 1
Conclusion.
As serious Aviculturists, we are responsible for the successful propagation of the species we keep. Soon these little gems may no longer be available to us so it is imperative that we apply all the knowledge we have in keeping them healthy and productive.
It is also vital that any new experiences gained by Aviculturists are shared with club members and are documented for future reference.
Due to the iimport and export bans imposed by some countries, one can no longer rely on an
endless supply of birds and therefore it has become necessary to specialize and establish
excellent breeding stock amongst like minded aviculturists.
Level of importance
1. Absolutely Neccessary.
2. Necessary ( If possible).
RAS always welcomes new members. Should you like to know more about joining
Please email megapower@icon.co.za
Monday, March 21, 2011
Some QUAIL QUERIES
A follower of our blog has the following queries about quails:-
We started an outdoor aviary 2 1/2 years ago with Zebra finches and common quails. They are all happy and have bred continuously.
I have a few questions about quails and hope you can assist me or direct me to someone who can. I have been readling on the internet but have not found answers to my questions.
The scenario is:
From the original pair of quails we now have 7. The female quail has managed to raise 3 sets of chicks in this time despite the commom belief that they are not good mothers (first one, then 2 then another 2). The most recent hatched 34 weeks ago and there were 3 but one died in the first week.
They have mostly been female chicks. One, I think may be a male. In August 2010 the one young female laid eggs and sat for weeks - and was veru broody - and eventually after over 4 weeks I took them out as they were obviously not fertile. She has not laid eggs any since, but the original female has.
I have 3 questions:
1. The female quails (the older chicks) who are now reaching maturity - should I be buying another male quail for the aviary or will the original male fertilise their eggs too?
2. One of the older females' beak is very long - unusually long - and she can feed okay, but I feel it needs to be 'trimmed' of filed. Please guide me as to the correct thing to do?
3. I give them fresh spinach every day (that I grow in my garden - they are very fussy and will not acceot spinach bunches from the shops) but they do not seem to eat any other fruit or vegetables I put down. Is this usual?
I would appreciate your response.
Kind regards
Clare
Hi Clare,
Glad to hear your quails have been breeding, though the number bred over a 2 1/2 year period does seem to be lower than it shold be. A common problem with breeding results is often related to the age of the parent birds. For best results try matching birds that are about 1 year old. and the results should greatly improve.
The incubation period for Common Quails is 16-22 days. A lot of futile time can be saved by candling the eggs at the 10 day stage. If they are clear they should be discarded, and very often you may find the whole clutch infertile.
Its not usually a good idea to have more than 1 cock in the same aviary, as they can become very aggressive towards each other when wanting to breed. So I would recommend having 1 new young cock to not more than 2 of your young matured hens per aviary.The Cock may mate with both and they may both lay in the same nest.
Rather dispose of the original pair and any surplus offspring if you dont have another aviary or two to keep them separate. Always , when swopping or obtaing other birds, try and select birds that are not blood-line related to prevent interbreeding.
Regarding an overgrown beak, this can be rectified by using a sharp pair of scissors or nail clippers, and clip the beak back just above where the bloodline begins. This should be roughly the same length as the other mandible.
If you have chickweed, I`m sure you`ll find this will be devoured by the quails, though homegrown spinnach is also very good. Like humans they are partial to different things at different time of the year!
Lastly, if you arent already giving your quails softfood (eggfood) I suggest you do as this has a lot of nutritional value especially for breeding and raising baby quails. You could mix in grated carrots, and brocolli which is very good for them.
Hope this helps
Mike.
We started an outdoor aviary 2 1/2 years ago with Zebra finches and common quails. They are all happy and have bred continuously.
I have a few questions about quails and hope you can assist me or direct me to someone who can. I have been readling on the internet but have not found answers to my questions.
The scenario is:
From the original pair of quails we now have 7. The female quail has managed to raise 3 sets of chicks in this time despite the commom belief that they are not good mothers (first one, then 2 then another 2). The most recent hatched 34 weeks ago and there were 3 but one died in the first week.
They have mostly been female chicks. One, I think may be a male. In August 2010 the one young female laid eggs and sat for weeks - and was veru broody - and eventually after over 4 weeks I took them out as they were obviously not fertile. She has not laid eggs any since, but the original female has.
I have 3 questions:
1. The female quails (the older chicks) who are now reaching maturity - should I be buying another male quail for the aviary or will the original male fertilise their eggs too?
2. One of the older females' beak is very long - unusually long - and she can feed okay, but I feel it needs to be 'trimmed' of filed. Please guide me as to the correct thing to do?
3. I give them fresh spinach every day (that I grow in my garden - they are very fussy and will not acceot spinach bunches from the shops) but they do not seem to eat any other fruit or vegetables I put down. Is this usual?
I would appreciate your response.
Kind regards
Clare
Hi Clare,
Glad to hear your quails have been breeding, though the number bred over a 2 1/2 year period does seem to be lower than it shold be. A common problem with breeding results is often related to the age of the parent birds. For best results try matching birds that are about 1 year old. and the results should greatly improve.
The incubation period for Common Quails is 16-22 days. A lot of futile time can be saved by candling the eggs at the 10 day stage. If they are clear they should be discarded, and very often you may find the whole clutch infertile.
Its not usually a good idea to have more than 1 cock in the same aviary, as they can become very aggressive towards each other when wanting to breed. So I would recommend having 1 new young cock to not more than 2 of your young matured hens per aviary.The Cock may mate with both and they may both lay in the same nest.
Rather dispose of the original pair and any surplus offspring if you dont have another aviary or two to keep them separate. Always , when swopping or obtaing other birds, try and select birds that are not blood-line related to prevent interbreeding.
Regarding an overgrown beak, this can be rectified by using a sharp pair of scissors or nail clippers, and clip the beak back just above where the bloodline begins. This should be roughly the same length as the other mandible.
If you have chickweed, I`m sure you`ll find this will be devoured by the quails, though homegrown spinnach is also very good. Like humans they are partial to different things at different time of the year!
Lastly, if you arent already giving your quails softfood (eggfood) I suggest you do as this has a lot of nutritional value especially for breeding and raising baby quails. You could mix in grated carrots, and brocolli which is very good for them.
Hope this helps
Mike.
Thursday, January 20, 2011
SOME BIRDS FOR SALE
1 pair Indian Green Winged Doves, 1 pair Pigmy Doves, 1 pair Yellow billed Pruvian doves,
1 pair Zebra doves, ? dont know how many Burmese doves, and Barbary doves.
Contact John on 0781575469
1 pair Zebra doves, ? dont know how many Burmese doves, and Barbary doves.
Contact John on 0781575469
Thursday, January 6, 2011
Breeding info of the Madagascar Lovebird (Agapornis Cana)
Hi Guys,
As there seems to be no usefull information available on the internet regarding the keeping and breeding of this beatifull bird, I have decided to share my experience of these birds with all the keen bird enthusiasts out there.
Some Facts:
-The Madagascar lovebird has been listed on SITES as "Vulnerable" or "Threatened".
-Only 7% of the natural forest remains in tact on Madagascar (Their natural habitat)
-These are the smallest of the nine Lovebird species and by far the most timid of the lot! Madagascars are in fact so placid by nature that they can be kept with finches!
-They prefer normal finch type seed (Millets etc)due to their small size.
Madagascar lovebirds should be kept as normal finches would. They are shy, timid and secretive. They are by far more of a challenge to keep than normal lovebirds. They do not seem to do well when kept in a colony setup as the females become quarrelsome when they start breeding.
I have noted that they tend to become egg-bound when breeding and therefore recommend that extra care should be taken during this period!
A wide variety of nesting sites should be made available. The following foto's shows some of the chosen sites made by my birds.
Living plant material should be made available at all times if you are hoping to breed these birds. They have a very peculiar way of collecting their nesting material. The female tears up leaves into small bits and tucks it into her feathers before flying to the nest. Inside the nest she will remove the leaves from her feathers and place the nesting material to her liking.
Please have a look at the video on this post to view this peculiar behaviour.
We should try our best to breed this species and increase their numbers, as they are indeed becoming very scarse! Only our best efforts in this regard will ensure the continued availability of these magnificent species!
My birds are kept in cubicle aviaries @ 1.5m x 3m x 2.2m high.
I currently have three pairs that are breeding, and will keep you guys informed of the progress.
Kindly note that the birds are picking leaves from the aviary next door - through the mesh!!!
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